Monday, September 26, 2011

Second Part: [Sound advice on bicycle touring, adventure travel from my friend Lee in Korea]



55 days later in the expedition, reaching Baima Snow Mountain - Northern Yunnan Province, western China. I recorded 4370 meters where I camped free for the night, entertained Chinese visitors in a truck loaded with tea (university students locked in the back, and a mad driver that danced Kung-Fu like Bruce Lee (Liu Shao Long), ate marshmallows cooked on an open campfire , another campfire in the morning to warm up, enjoyed everything!
 Road to Tibet, Also the road linking Shin-do-Cheng, Jolong, Mianning, Xicheng, Yan Yuan, Lugu Hu, Lijiang, Shangri-La, Deqin - all within the borders of an amazingly challenging geographical landscape across 2 giant provinces of China!
 Meeting a photographer and getting the how-to about SLR cameras (GoPro Hero on my helmet)
Cycling friends on their way to Lhasa, Tibet. We rode together from Chengdu to Shin-Do-Cheng in 5 days, 750km. And Shin-Do-Cheng to Lugu Hu (Lake) 761km in 9 days. Rough ride on the second leg of the adventure solo again! 
More photos and less riding, easy conversation, steady climbing, easy to cover 100km in a day as a group
Welcome to China, the old and the new 
 Giant bicycle uniform, Merida bicycle, Rider - all three from China! ***No helmet all the way to Lhasa, Tibet!
 Cyclist as a daily mode of transportation, notice helmet is sun protection only.
 Bike-lite MTB touring, all riders doing endurance to Tibet have this setup
 I like masks to protect from the sun and prevent my allergies from affecting the ride
 The bright florescent rain covers are a nice touch to these Merida panniers
 My bike, my HimalayasX2011 expedition of western China
 Urban cycling and trike taxis in Sichuan Province
Second Part:   [Sound advice on bicycle touring, adventure travel from my friend Lee in Korea] 

Lee wrote:

Brian:

No worries. Just remember that durability is more important than sophistication especially if you are in the wilds. Any advice, apart from this, is useless as you will develop your own methods, equipage, and philosophy as you proceed. You will however find that eating, FOOD, will become an insistent preoccupation. Seat, tyres, food, in that order, are probably the pressing concerns of any long-distance cyclist and if you read accounts written by those who have done long trips these are abiding issues.

If you prepare some good documentation, I have a pal who still keeps his hand in the bicycle world, a former racer, shop owner, friends with most of the early bicycle pioneers, now living in Montreal who might be a good person to send footage. When the time comes, I will be glad to provide introductions.

You must remember that in this place, and in the sort of job we are doing, most people are really not 'here,' it is just an adventure, and the usual social mechanisms are not operating. People who race bicycles are a different breed from those who like to go long distances, much like comparing sprinters with marathoners: the subject is the same, the philosophies differ.

Good luck. Don't expect things to go as you plan. Enjoy the people as much as the act of riding. Be prepared for serendipity. There is something about long distance bicycle travel that brings out the best in most people.

Lee.

Brian wrote: 


Thanks Lee.

I received no constructive support from the cycling community I belong in Seoul (facebook group, Han River Riders) regarding my expedition. While a friend posted to their wall, explaining my upcoming event and blog, their administration deleted this community message. The competitive in Cycling in Korea, somehow cuts like a knife if you don't follow suit like the rest of the flock here. 

Your advice is sound, the new seat from Kevin Bike Shop owner, An Dae Gi was perfect (a little glue where it was breaking off underneath), a completely different and supportive saddle. The final and intermediately lost parcel containing a Sony Polycarbonate all-weather case for the Sony Handycam, 240GB of internal memory, 12MP still frame photos and HD video capture, Kevlar foam inserts for my previous expedition jacket (excellent all round protection designed for motorcycling, but suitable for cycling as a warm, protective layer. And a Toshiba Protege notebook computer, 13" compact and long-battery life, insured for the trip, as is the camera. Along with the Brunton 25w solar charging system, it's a unique equipment list. Everything packed in waterproofs. If the electronics survive the mission and can be secured, it will be a marvel in itself.

I am taking calculated risks, I hope that the right choices are chosen selectively to secure the safest routes for the adventure.

Kind Regards,

Brian

Lee wrote:
Brian:

Let me be perfectly candid about riding bicycles long distances, which I have for quite some time: it is not a question of technology. Fancy equipment, electronic gear, all of it is useless if you have a flat tyre or bust casing, no food, a bum seat, busted spokes, bent rims, no brake pads, and so on. It is doubtful that you will be able to find much in the way of spares in Tibet, or even in many places in rural China that will fit or may be adapted to your relatively modern equipment. If I had to take any electronic equipment on a long trip by bicycle it would be a smart phone and that helmet camera, and nothing else.

The practical concerns are tubes, tyres, spokes, reliable stove that burns anything (fuel oil, kerosene, yak piss, etc.), a supply of quick energy food (dried meat, etc.), good containers for water, clothing that is durable but warm, a proper sleeping bag, etc. You can pick up things as you will along the way. My guess is that you will find yourself figuring out what you need or don't need and jetissoning the dross, to mix a metaphor. 

Don't worry about the 'cycling community'; that is a lot of bollocks. If you do decent touring you will find the 'real' riders. People who ride with sag-wagons and hotels are not in the same category. Living off the land, or riding rough, this is true bicycle touring if such a thing exists. The closer you are to being 'with' the bicycle rather than 'on' the bicycle, the nearer you draw towards what is important. Riding in this fashion is a bit like being the original wanderers we were before plants and animals were domesticated in Mesopotamia. The tendency you will have with trailer is to accumulate rather than discard, but weight will tell you the importance of what you carry. 

Good luck, again, and take it easy.

Lee.

Saturday, September 24, 2011

Bicycle Touring in western China: Taklamakan Desert, The Silk Road, Tarim Desert Highway

 Hotan, Uyghur Autonomous Region of China (in style for breakfast and tea)
Outside the international hotel a small gathering comes together  
 I use my diary to record QQ.com numbers, these are addresses for email and a version of Facebook used entirely across China. I want to get a QQ.com account - there's a new world to explore!
 Okay, tell me your digits or I'll give you mine. Sadly, Beijing's censorship is so tight...even this harmless blog isn't visible in the Asian Giant (apt name for a popular mountain bike Made in China.)
 Okay, I am getting to it!
 I don't want to meet strangers and remain strangers. I sent email out to 76 people in China. I used Google translate to send a personal message in Chinese language. I reply to friends on Facebook using their native language as well. It's a globalized world, but show some respect for native languages too! 
 This purple pen was falling apart for the entire 60 day expedition, sending the love...I kept a constant diary and recorded daily events, names, places, distances and elevations. 
 Thanks guys, made me feel important for a moment in my tiny life. 
 Back on the road. My choice ride is built with a 2008 frame (13400km) and 2008 components as well
 Tires of choice, Schwalbe Marathon Tour Plus (revision of Marathon XR)
 My front racks are $20 (USD) plus a 0.25 cent rebar piece from Urumqi metal street-recycler. + Zip PVC plastic ties to keep it all together. It looks rough, but there is science in there. Perfection for 3200km!
 Taklamakan Desert, July 2011. Note the irrigation lines and shrubs offer no relief from the sun.
 At night (infrared photo) Taklamakan Desert beats with dust storms, really nasty stuff!
 I'm camping 1/2 way in the entrance to a diesel engine room, an engine turns the pumps and brings water out of aqua ducts beneath the desert floor
 Feeling awesome -this is freedom to me, deserts, camping, bikes, touring, all in one!
 Good morning! - Stoked (excited) to be full of life (better half full than half empty)
 Talking to Mi Sung and the kids in Canada, wow -technology!
 My host watches in disbelief, a costume character with a bicycle in the Taklamakan - "What the hell???"
 I'm having a great chat with Mi Sung and the kids, the camera takes photos when someone is smiling like (:
 A few days of explosive diarrhea is great, I'm getting slimmer by the day!
 My ride. in park mode on concrete power poles in the Taklamakan Desert
 Hwy 315 (2375km from somewhere) Taklamakan Tarim Desert Highway (Great article to read, all true!)
 I lost Lysanne and Louis-Philippe's card after leaving the desert. Here is the photo to reconnect with them. We met in Beijing about 3625km away from this location in the Taklamakan. Checking up with them, they traveled 4500km in 88 days in China. Awesome! More updates at their link, I will follow them!
And this is only the beginning of my adventure... To be continued...

Bicycle Touring Essentials - Choosing correct gear for your next global expedition

 Preparing for a trip across China. What do you really need to bring for a summer expedition? Minus the Joe Rocket Kevlar-reinforced bomber jacket, this was the essential kit list (clothing, sleeping bag, thermarest, camera soft carrying case, cycling SPD shoes, Goretex jacket and pants).
 Photo in infrared. Sorting out the expedition equipment list. Bike (Kona Explosif) Trailer (Bob Ibex Suspension Plus) did not complete the mission. A bike build continued until 9 hours before the launch.
Medical supplies (top center, gauze, alcohol, antibiotics -topical and oral, razors, baby moisturizing wipes -essential for remote locations, camping without water resupply, straps, gum, WD40, power supply (Toshiba 13" notebook computer), duct/gaffer tape, Brunton 25w solar charging panel, bungees
 Compressed gas stoves (butane/LPG) were left behind in Korea, I used rubbing alcohol purchased from local pharmacies with a MSR multi-fuel camp stove.
 Electronics: two external hard drives (a) 750GB portable LG (b) 1TB Seagate GoFlex. Toilet paper (:, electronic adapters, cable locks, personal safety alarms, AC/DC power converter for use with Solar 25w charging blanket, headphones/mp3, audio recorder, plus adapter (I would add at power bar for China*)
 More essential kit from IDEAS foundation, touque/hat, MSR water filtration, MSR stoves, MSR fuel bottles, Arteryx Goretex shell outer jacket - Thanks IDEAS!
For sale in Korea, this equipment is perfect for another expedition -somewhere outside China!
Most important kit, the family that loves you before you leave, while you're away and when you return home
Two little characters, Sierra P and Min Jae P - Love you guys!
Trying out the new gun! Sony Handycam HDR-XR550V 240GB video/film camera + H20 housing!
Can you take a bike box on an expedition (sea to land start, Incheon, Korea-Tianjin, China) NO! Unless you take a flight to the starting point, then YES!
Shin armor essential for downhill mountain biking, not expedition bicycle touring. 
Tilley endurables hat was helpful keeping cover off days. The Topeak Alien II is an important bicycle tool, it is versatile, lacking only pliers for tackling bigger projects. MSR fuel bottles important ONLY IF COOKING! 
This setup has the Ortlieb Ultimate Large handlebar bag (German technology -low tech, amazing!) and Manfrotto Magic Arm and Super Clamp combination for video use.
Manfrotto's Super clamp/Magic Arm is heavy and intended for smooth road use only!
Gear is important for bicycle touring, what to bring is an important amateur question. After sorting it out after launch, you'll know exactly what you'll need and what non-essential kit needs to be shipped back.
Essential kit: backback, GPS, MSR water filtration microfilter, Lowepro SLR camera bag for all accessible camera/phone/chargers in daily usage), Helmet and light (I chose Cygolite Expilion 250 lumen USB charged) 
Perfect setup for expedition filming and exploring (frame isn't suitable due to steel flex)
If it doesn't work, fix it. If it works, don't touch it! Replacing the wrong bicycle is essential before a long ride!
 Once everything gets organized at home, you'll know what you'll need for the long road.
 My finished product looked like this. I never owned a touring bicycle before. This is it!
 If everything is balanced, front and rear pannier racks are essential (weight balanced). The rear wheel should be solid builds (I went with Bontrager Race Disc wheelsets built by the TREK company).
 My forks are 2008 Fox Racing Shox 32 Float RL, adjustable is essentially the best element of my bike!
 I met Haligul, a local nurse in Toksun and she invited me to her village for water resupply (I filtered the roadway aqua duct instead with the MSR filter)
 The bicycle touring bug can bite you anytime, and it's impossible to lose the feeling (:
 Camping inside the Tian Shan Mountains, a highlight of the expedition.
 Dry clay tiles of Earth.
 Soft steps on an amazing place to be!
 Hair is styled by overnight camping in the Tian Shan Mountain desert
 Simple life. The right touring bike attached to your tent for a little extra security.
 Signs in Arabic/Chinese Pinying
 This is the G312. Next stop is the highway toilets (Pass! The smell will kill you!)
 Balanced right. I found using a recycled 10000km frame best.
 If you essential bicycle touring kit is organized right, it should pack into this fit.
 I was happy to finally have the "bicycle touring" feeling, took a lifetime to get here!
 Water resupply was crucial along the G312, good luck reaching the Taklamakan Desert otherwise. The Taklamakan Desert had irrigation water available for drinking, nothing outside the desert south of the Tian Shan Mountains on the long haul G312 to Luntai, a few truck stops on the roadside was all!
 Panniers by Ortlieb (Germany). Bicycle touring made PRO.
 Attach your LOGOS everywhere to be noticed, and prevent BIKE THEFT
Cycling in western China over the next 47 days... To be continued...